You might have heard of the ‘80s perms, or you might be expecting beach waves. Every perm is slightly different, so let’s take a basic look at perms.
What exactly is it?
The term “perm” is actually short for “permanent waves.” So, just like it sounds, a perm makes your hair permanently wavy.
How does that work? On the inside of each hair, there are bonds. We actually have three types of bonds. Two of them (salt and hydrogen) are constantly breaking and reforming with water and heat when we wash and style our hair. But the third type of bond is a disulfide bond. It is the strongest type, and has to be broken using the chemicals in perm solution. Pretty nifty, right?
What does the process of getting a perm look like?
Step 1: Begin with a consultation. Here’s where we discuss your hair history, inspiration pictures, size of curl, and styling habits.
Step 2: Wash with a clarifying shampoo to remove any buildup and create a clear path so the perm solution can penetrate evenly.
Step 3: Roll the hair on to curlers called perm rods. The pattern and size of rod is determined by the type of curl you want and length of your hair.
Step 4:Apply perm solution. Be prepared to cover your nose with a towel, because it doesn’t exactly smell like a basket of roses. But don’t worry, as soon as it’s evenly applied, we put a plastic cap over it to keep in the heat (and smell lol 😂).
Step 5: Process for up to 20 mins. Most of the action actually takes place in the first 7 mins. Over processing the hair can actually lead to straighter hair than you started with. 😳 This is the step where most perms go bad, if you’re not careful. This is why we take a test strand to make sure it looks good.
Step 6: Rinse thoroughly with warm to hot water, until the smell subsides. Towel blot, allow to dry for a few mins. This is called creep time. It allows the curls to set. If you’re using Olaplex, there’s a couple additional steps here too.
Step 7: Apply neutralizer and let it sit for 5-10 mins before removing rods and rinsing with cool water.
Step 8: Towel dry, or diffuse to style.
What next?
The most important thing about perms that you need to know is the aftercare. It’s important to make sure you don’t put any shampoo, conditioner, styling products, clips, ponytails, or anything (except water) on your hair for at least 24 hours (preferably 48). During this time, the curls are still setting in their new pattern, and it’s important to not disturb them. You can get your hair wet, with just plain water to help the curls not be so crazy, or to restyle in the morning
I love perms, but the first two weeks are a little crazy. Your hair will be frizzy at first, because it’s super stressed out, and doesn’t know what to do with itself. It’s also super tight. It does relax over time, so don’t worry.
After 48 hours, what do you do with your permed hair?
I love perms! It was actually the first chemical treatment I did on my hair. That's why I’m so passionate about curly hair care. You will want some damage control, but mostly hydration. I recommend using a hydrating shampoo and conditioner, and using a protein-based damage control mask on your hair once a week, or a couple times a month. And for styling, I love the LOC method. LOC stands for Leave-in conditioner, Oil, and Cream. Depending on your curls, you may try a different combo, but that’s my favorite go-to. Also, using a microfiber towel or t-shirt helps minimize frizz.
PS the curls do relax after about two weeks, so enjoy your perm from those two weeks until it grows out (or about 6 months) before perming it again. You can safely color and lighten your hair after a perm, but use caution and wise professional judgement. Always spread out your chemical services by at least 2-4 weeks.
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